Episode 87 - Critical Mistakes Were Made, Crappy Shellac Finish, Shop Lights Layout & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael 2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons. I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times. Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone. Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand. Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon   Huy 1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting. Did you use program to help layout of design?  I’m working on tool and dust collector now. Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color.  Suggestions?  Thanks, Chris Hough 2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn't / can't use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more "refined" profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say - don't trust anyone over 40 (I'm 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something. The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference - Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter's...bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple - pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000. Thanks for the advice. I'm starting on these in early December, so I'll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom   Guy 1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn't seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy 2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question.  You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2.I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac.  I’m not feeling the love personally.  Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem.  I use the Zinzer product and brush it on.  I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge.  Lots of runs