Episode 83 - HVLP Sprayers, Squeeze Out In Corners, Warped Bench Top & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) How do you guys remove remove squeeze out on inside corners? Let’s assume that you forgot to do any prep work for squeeze out. Is the only option short repetitive tedious strokes with sandpaper and scrapers? It seems like any other  sanding options leave cross grain scratches. Blue bees woodworking 2)Hi guys - Watching YouTube videos I see more and more people using dust masks / breathing apparatus these days.As an old guy ( I'm even older than Guy ) this equipment  was never available or even thought of many years ago, perhaps we would slip on some safety glasses and call it quits. I must confess a lot of my pottering around in the shed is done with just a pair of thongs ( I think maybe in the US you call them flip flops)edit: I don't want you guys thinking I'm wandering around my shed in a g-string ( thong / thongs), translations between countries varies . (I live in Australia)Anyways these days I see people wearing breathing masks / filters/ respirators that start from a simple mouth covering such as a mask to outrageously looking respirators that look like something from a Star Wars movie set.Do you guys use breathing protection ? If so, which type and your thoughts behind your choicesPS: I'm older than Guy and don't own a SawStop, please answer as soon as you can as my time on earth is limited RegardsGeoff   Guy 1)I have a question regarding cutting and joining 2x 45 degree angles. My question mostly applies to using hardwood, not plywood and thicker stock, like 6/4 and 8/4 for things like a waterfall style table or bench. I have the FeStool tracksaw, which is what I’ve used to cut my 45s. I find that it’s pretty dialed in when I check the angle after the cut, but for some reason when I join the 2 45s it’s always a few degrees off from 90. For what it’s worth, I join the 45s w dominos. I’m just having difficulty getting a perfectly even/square joint. Don’t really know if it’s a clamping or cutting issue to be honest. Any suggestions on clamping or cutting that could Help w this issue? (I’m not opposed to making a table saw sled just for when cutting 45s, but that’s not really an option for larger pieces) - Byran 2) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question, I thought I’d return with another! My question is about water based finishes and HVLP spraying. I’ve been looking at buying a Fuji sprayer but unsure if it’s suitable and also what stage to go for? I have a small shop and feel HVLP is the way to go although I’ve been advised to go for an airless system instead Mainly be spraying water based paint finishes, but again unsure if this is suitable with HVLP? Also use a lot of Polyx osmo oil, is this suitable to be sprayed? -Mike   Huy 1)For this question. I have a 4ft by 4ft bench.  You guessed.... 2x4 frame screwed and glued to 4x4 legs with 1 sheet of 23/32 ply wood (cut in half hence the 4x4 ft top) screwed down.  I did not glue the top.  My thought was i can change/flip them if one sides gets beat up. There is a slight crown in my bench top.  The center is a bit higher then the edges and the corners are lowest.  What are your suggestions on on flatting this out.  It become a problem mostly hand planing as the corner is lower, and the work piece tips up. Thank you, Scott 2) Hello fellas, this is Garrett Roberson from HMR Custom Woodcraft.  I have a question about building a 36" wide by 72" long wall hanging that will go up behind a dart board.  The customer wants something to hang on the wall behind a dart board to protect the drywall behind it.  I would like to make it hang from the wall so that they can change or move it in the future instead of permanently attaching it to the wall.  My plan is to use a 1/4" ply backing board, then make 6" wide x 1/2" thick panels out of walnut and lay it out in a herringbone pattern going 18" to either side from center.  Finally I plan to trim out around it to cover the ply and give it a more finis