Episode 82 - Router Speed, Christmas Gifts, Hardwood of Softwood? & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Huy 1) Hey guys.  This is definitely more of a "beginner" question, but can you elaborate on how you determine what speed setting to use on your router?  Does it change depending on the hardness of the wood?  Or the type of grain you're routing?  Or maybe the size or particular profile of the bit?  Whether you're routing in a router table or freehand?  Plunging versus edge work?  I own the DeWalt (DW618PKB) plunge router with speed setting 1-6.  I always leave it on 6 and never think twice about it.  But I'm wondering if I could get better results (less tear out, less burning) if I pay more attention to the speed setting?  Thank you for all the interesting information every week.  Thank you!  Matt @WoodMillerDesigns 2) Hey everyone! Love the show. Have heard you talk about shellac for an initial coat or 2 of finish, then topped with something else such as a water or oil based poly. I know an only shellac finish can have clouding issues if someone leaves a drink on the surface, ie drink rings. I know shellac also could dissolve if an alcoholic beverage was spilled and not cleaned quickly. My question is:  would you still have these issues if you did 1-2 coats of shellac and then several top coats of water or oil based poly?  Or does the poly topcoat eliminate these shellac drawbacks? Ron   Sean 1) Hey there great podcasters! Just wanted to say after you kindly answered my question about grey streaky raindrop trails in my water-based poly finish (your suggestion was that I was using waxed shellac) that I did check what shellac I had used. Sure enough, it was waxed bullseye shellac! I had a can of the sealcoat de-waxed that I had finished and must have picked up the regular, waxed stuff by mistake. (I know, I know, I should mix up my own...) Thanks so much for your excellent deduction and help! Not sure if you're still in dire need of questions, but if you are, I have one you could use: are any of you making woodworked holiday presents this year? If so, what are you thinking? If not, what's the best small, wood-based gifts you've made for people in the past? 2) Second, in a separate conversation, I said I sanded 80, 120, 180, 220. My boss sands 100, 120, 150, 220. (We both sand 320 after the first two layers of finish and 400 is any further sanding is needed.)  When he heard that I went from 120 to 180 he said "I don't skip grits." Which didn't make sense to me because he "skips" 180. It made me think about all the advice on sanding I've heard. I always heard "proceed through the grits, don't rush, don't skip grits." But rarely does anyone mention a specific grit besides where they stop (which can be anywhere from 220 to 400). So where do you start and what are all of the grits you use? Mike   Guy 1) Heyy-o! I am a new woodworker and in the process of trying to get my shop together so I can start making custom pieces.  I am also a new listener. My  biggest question that I have searched and searched for and cannot seem to find a satisfactory answer is: How do I decide what type(s) of wood I should use for a project? I know that there is hardwood and softwood, but which is which and how do I know which to use and when?? How do I know what types of wood are paint grade or stain grade, or just clear finish grade?  It seems like everyone just skips over this, and doesn't really explain the differences. Your help on this would be awesome and super beneficial! Thanks, Daniel 2) Hey Guys, Looking for some direction on Slab style kitchen doors. I’ve got a small kitchen, walk in pantry and laundry room that needs some cabinets. My wife wants smooth style modern doors so they are easy to clean and wipe down.  And she wants them painted. I’ve made plenty of frame and panel doors but curious how you guys would tackle the construction of these. Is it just as easy as cutting up a sheet of MDF or Plywood laminating some edging and spraying them? Or would you make stave cor