Episode 67 – Shellac Tips For Large Surfaces, Starting Clamp Collection, Break Down Workbench, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)Hey fellas. 2 questions for you Purely hypothetical- you can only have 1: table saw or track saw. And why? When sanding back, how far is back? Are you aiming for a perfectly flat surface? This is harder to achieve on open grain woods like oak, yes? Keep up the great show. Mark Aka Matt 2)I am finishing a large table, 10'x 5', and would like to use Shellac on it, then seal it with water based poly, specifically General Finishes High Performance Water based Satin. How important is it to keep a wet edge with the shellac? Since it dries so quickly, I can see some difficulty keeping a wet edge on a piece this big. If so, any advice on how to do that? On a test piece I've been using, the above mentioned poly is drying FAST. As in completely tack free in under 10 minutes. I'm working indoors in Central Ohio, with temp about 68, and low relative humidity, probably around 35-40%. Should I be concerned that the Poly is drying that fast? Will it cause any problems? Thanks  and keep up with the great show! MLBett WoodWorks   Huy 1) Good morning. I have a quick question about building a slab top hand tool bench. I was recently gifted a great 60”x20”x4.5” oak slab. I’ve read Chris’s book and would like to do a roubo style bench. My problem is my current shop is in the basement and I would eventually like to move to a new outbuilding shop down the road. What design ideas would you suggest for a sturdy base design that is functional but could eventually be broke down and moved them out back together? I was thinking sliding dovetails in the bottom of the slab then build a base to connect to that? I have no idea. 😂 appreciate the help. Cheers, Garrett 2)New Patreon supporter here. Love the show. Love you Huy! Love you Sean! Kind of like you, Guy! HA! (Why is he so cranky?!) I'm a garage hobbyist who loves to work in the shop as a getaway from real life. Generally speaking I'm a neat freak and the dust in my garage makes me crazy. I'm currently using a 2HP Harbor Freight Dust Collector with Dust Deputy XL and Wynn filter. I've got a combination of PVC piping and flex hose to my tools. The PVC joints are taped together but not glued. I try to keep the wynn filter blown out and have even taped the top of my plastic bag to the metal housing for a better seal. Every time I turn the collector on I get a ton of fine dust in the air. It covers everything in the shop and even gets to the point of looking a little foggy. I intend to get an air cleaner (or just some box fans) but I can't imagine that it will take care of all the dust. I don't know what to do. I'm considering the Oneida Supercell because it seems totally self contained with no exposed filter or bag, but that's a big purchase for a hobbyist. I see shops that look spotless online. Is having a dustless shop really possible? Is there anything you suggest I look at in my current system to minimize the dust?  Thanks for all you do for the woodworking community and Guy, please cheer up. Thanks- Ben in North Carolina   Guy 1)Good day gentlemen. Great information but let's jump right in and not boost your egos more than necessary :) My wife and I built a custom house in 2020 which somehow has a master closet that is only 50sqft smaller than my woodshop. Can you help me understand how I allowed this to happen? Ok kidding, I am grateful to have my own shop space but I would like your thoughts on using pre-finished plywood for making built-ins for said closet. It will be a huge project and the thought of spraying latex or a pre-cat lacquer on that many cabinets sounds daunting. The built-ins will be some shade of white with lower drawer banks and upper open shelving/hanging areas. On the lower sections, I can use UV finished ply as the interior will not need to be white but can I get custom colors for the open uppers? If I go the route of using pre-finished ply then all joinery will need to be concealed and I would li