45 Deg Corners, Making Veneer, Clamping Pressure and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions: Guy's Questions: With mothers day around the corner, I plan on knocking out a couple of small jewelry boxes. Mitered corners and book matched grain for a seamless look. 2 questions leading into this project. The first is more likely for Guy. In the past my boxes have been cut to 45.1 degrees to ensure a closed outside corner. My table saw is a jobsite saw and setting a precise angle is extremely difficult. I recently set up a router table and have seen guy use a 45 degree chamfer bit to cut miters this way. How close to 45 degree do these bits actually get? Is there a brand you recommend for better accuracy? How bad is the tear out? 2nd question. In the past I used a wiping poly to finish the boxes. However VOC's are a concern for these boxes. I'd like to finish the boxes with a base coat of shellac and finish with beeswax top coat. I purchased a block of beeswax but didn't really think about how to dissolve it for quick finish. Seems like mineral spirits are the leading candidate but I'm curious if anyone has used natural oil citrus solvent for the same task (I'd likely by the version from milk paint company). Jose Gentlemen, thank you for all you do to support and educate the woodworking community through this podcast and other platforms.  I'm planning out a full kitchen remodel for our home and will be building the cabinets myself.  The style of cabinets will be frameless/euro style which means all the plywood will need to be edge banded.  The plywood will be pre-finished, but the doors and drawer fronts will be painted.  How would you recommend finishing the edge banding to match the door and drawer front color?  Would you do hardwood edge banding and paint it?  That seems like it would take a lot of taping which leaves room for lots of error.  Is there such a thing as custom colored edge banding for cabinets that is either iron-on or peel-and-stick?  I don't have an edge banding machine so that probably limits my options.  Thanks in advance for your help! Joel Hi guys,Thanks for providing some great knowledge for fellow woodworkers.My question is around drum sanders and the usefulness of them in a hobby shop. When do you use a drum sander and what type of projects are you using a drum sander on?I just purchased a 20” bandsaw and would like to start resawing veneers for projects. In the past I would buy 1/16” thick veneers from a commercial veneer shop which worked well. But I question if a drum sander is actually required/desired  for this operation. I’ve read a bunch about troubles with drum sander’s and really question if it speeds up the work.Could I just joint a fresh face, resaw. Then joint another fresh face and so on. Then glue up the panel. And either clean up the panel on the planner or ROS?In my  future I probably have a set of kitchen cabinets and various built in cabinets(which I would either buy plywood or use commercial veneer and glue my own). I normally make freestanding furniture as well. This isn’t a production shop, and I have all the normal tools for dimensioning lumber, TS, Jointer, and planer.Feel free to summarize my question, just wanted to give you guys enough context.Thanks,Jesse Beechland Furniture Huys Questions: Hi GuysHave known of & liked Guy’s YT channel for a number of years and recently came across this podcast which I’m really enjoying as I go through the back catalogue.I must be on similar wavelength to you Guy as I love (& own a lot / most of) the Incra stuff, saw your MFT style outfeed which I’m about to build a copycat of (just awaiting delivery of the aluminium extrusion) and am in the midst of milling the timber to start building your mini workbench, the plans for which I recently bought.I then happened on your YT channel the other day Huy and whilst watching the 6yo shop tour video was interested to see your boom arm. Could you tell me a bit more about it. Is it bought as is, or built up from tubing etc?Keep up the good work.Thanks Andy