RunOut #21: Jeff Smoot Relives Hangdog Days

In the 1980s, the rules of rock climbing were in a state of entropy. Climbers clashed over the fairest and most ethical approach to climbing and how to advance difficulty within these parameters. Depending on whom you spoke to, hangdogging was either a serious taboo—or the path to righteous radness. Of course, one trip to any sport crag anywhere on earth today will offer an obvious clue as to which side ultimately won. That hangdogging was once taboo now sounds as anachronistic as using a Rand McNally Atlas to navigate your car, while simultaneously fast forwarding your Phil Collins tape to get to the part of In the Air Tonight when the drum solo drops. But such was the 1980s. To push the ethical boundaries in the 1980s was to also accept the risk that you might just punched or taunted back at the campground. Yet when a climber achieved an inspiring ascent, by hook or crook, often times nothing more needed to be said. This is Andrew Bisharat, I’m here with Chris Kalous, and you’re listening to The RunOut. In this episode, we speak to Jeff Smoot, a climber of the era of big hair, bad attitudes, and bolts galore. Jeff, of course, has nothing resembling a bad attitude, despite the fact that we experienced a number of frustrating technical difficulties during the recording of this episode. Nevertheless, we managed to hang dog our way to the anchors and eek out a pretty great conversation about this era, which he has captured in his new book called “Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14.” And now, please enjoy our conversation with Jeff Smoot. Hangdog Days is available from Mountaineers Books. Jeff's Book Tour Schedule